Author: Evan Slater
Publisher: Chronicle Books
ISBN: 1452116490
Size: 80.89 MB
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Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography.


Author: エヴァンスレーター
ISBN: 9784756247629
Size: 42.93 MB
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北太平洋、南インド洋、南太平洋、大西洋の海域別に、嵐の中から海岸まで、うねりがたどる道のりを気象現象とともに追った「波」の写真集。外洋の大波から浜辺に打ち寄せる ...

Methods For Analysing Wind Wave And Swell Data To Estimate On An Annual Basis The Number Of Days And The Maximum Duration Of Periods During Which Port And Ship Operations Will Be Impeded By These Elements

Publisher: PIANC
Size: 34.98 MB
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List of symbols Ep = Encounter probability F(H'S} = Mean frequency per year of
storms of level H's = 8760f(H's} {year— 1) f(h's) = Mean frequency per hour of
upcrossings of the level H's (hi— 1) Hs = Significant wave height {mean wave
height of the highest one-third of the waves (m) Hc = Parameter of scale in the
Weibull distribution of Hs (see Fig. 11) (m) H0 = Parameter in the Weibull
distribution of Hs (lower limit of wave height) (m) Y = Parameter of shape in the
Weibull distribution ...

Extreme Waves

Author: Craig B. Smith
Publisher: National Academies Press
ISBN: 9780309100625
Size: 65.80 MB
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The helmsman, lulled into complacency by the endless succession of uneventful
swell, will suddenly experience more dramatic action as the ship is tossed about
by the shorter-period waves. A common remark muttered under these
circumstances (as the galley crew picks the dishes up off the floor) is, “Where did
that come from?” Today, satellite observations of the oceans are leading to
improved understanding of swell patterns throughout the year. By using satellite-
based altimeters ...

Ocean Surface Waves

Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810221096
Size: 68.64 MB
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Download Read Online Nonlinear coupling between swell and wind waves In nature, the
conditions of a uniform wind blowing over an ocean initially at rest occur very
infrequently. Usually the local wind waves develop in the presence of a low-
frequency swell that has radiated from a distant storm. The long waves can
influence the shorter ones in various ways. For the shorter waves overtaken by
the longer ones, the maximum unbroken wave height is less than it would be in
the absence of the swell.

The Surfer S Guide To Waves Coasts And Climates

Author: Tony Butt
Publisher: Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN: 9780906720585
Size: 34.68 MB
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Then, how many of these also have good prevailing wind conditions and regular,
long-lined swells of the right size and direction? Not many. So you can see that
the number we end up with is going to be pretty small. Also, the system has to be
stable and consistent. A perfect wave might appear one year in some estuary, but
that might have been a freak combination of excess riverflow due to a lot of snow
on the mountains, a run of westerly swells and unusual southerly winds, or some

Ecology Of Australian Temperate Reefs

Author: Scoresby Shepherd
ISBN: 1486300103
Size: 54.48 MB
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Wind-driven waves have periods of 2–8 s, and are important in bays, gulfs and
coastal waters. Swell, consisting of high energy, deepwater waves, with periods
of 8–15 s, is undoubtedly the major force along all the exposed temperate coasts
of Australia, and is almost continuous throughout the year. Although swell height
is < 1.2 m for 50–70% ofthe time in the deep sea off Australia (Morgan 1974), it
increases in height and energy, as it 'feels' the bottom on the inner shelf. Hence,
swell ...

Plates Plumes And Planetary Processes

Author: Gillian R. Foulger
Publisher: Geological Society of America
ISBN: 0813724309
Size: 48.46 MB
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SWELL. pilot. experiment—Evidence. for. lithosphere. rejuvenation. from. ocean.
bottom. surface. wave. data. Gabi Laske* Cecil H. and Ida M. Green Institute of
Geophysics and Planetary Physics, Scripps Institution of Oceanography,
University of ... year-long Seismic Wave Exploration in the Lower Lithosphere (
SWELL) pilot experiment in 1997/1998, eight ocean bottom instruments deployed
to the southwest of the Hawaiian Islands recorded teleseismic Rayleigh waves
with periods ...

Descriptive Physical Oceanography

Author: M. Affholder
Publisher: CRC Press
ISBN: 9780203969274
Size: 48.58 MB
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Here, apart from "mature waves" which form due to particular wind conditions,
many other sizes of waves travelling in different directions are present. (b) Swell
wave Sea wave that has moved out of the wind generating area is called a "Swell
Wave". It ceases to grow in size and to gain energy. Swell usually has a smooth,
and well rounded profile. It has a greater wave length and period and is capable
of disturbing the water to a great depth. The swell usually travels in a direction
more ...